Monster Joysticks ¦ Full Build & Review ¦ ARCADE QUALITY KIT!!!!!

Monster Joysticks ¦ Full Build & Review ¦ ARCADE QUALITY KIT!!!!!


Hello and welcome to another exciting
episode of Mark Fixes Stuff. In this video we’re going to build and test the
Mini-Monster joystick kit from www.monsterjoysticks.com. This model is for the PC
Engine Core Grafx I & II, Duo or SuperGrafx Let’s dive in and see what’s in
the kit. Before we begin I’m going to set this item to one side, to be featured in
a future video. It’s a clear top layer, an optional extra that you can use to put
your own printed graphics onto the Mini Monster. This bag contains the Sanwa Denshi Co. JLF-TP-8YT Ball Top Arcade Joystick. It has a solid
steel shaft and a really positive action. Flipping the joystick over we can see it
has a four-way restrictor. Unclipping this allows us access to the micro
switches. These are genuine Omron brand switches
as used in arcades. In fact the kit is made with genuine Sanwa Denshi arcade parts. Let’s put this back together before I
lose something… Next we have the cable for connecting
the Mini-Monster to the console it has a quality feel. This bag contains
connectors with Dupont style ends, leading to crimped spade connectors. The brains of the unit are also here, in the form of a small PCB. These smaller bags contain
some hardware. Nuts and bolts of many varieties… there’s even some rubber feet! This
package contains the laser-cut components that compose the high-impact
polystyrene (HIPS) case of the Mini-Monster. The dark marks here are from the laser
cutting process, and the cuts are very neat. Peeling the layers off can be tricky at
the start, but once you have it going it comes off quite easily. I still have all this to peel off so I’m
going to wave my magic wand and make it all appear done a bit later, instead of
making you watch it. The last thing in a kit is a roll of coloured hardware. I chose blue as it’s one of the colors
featured in my channel graphics, and it also matches my Core Grafx II really
nicely. We have buttons again, and these are genuine Sanwa parts – OBSF-30 arcade buttons to be precise. I have a big blue knob and it feels
really good in my hand… (Fnarr) Last we have two dust covers for the
joystick shaft I’m guessing one is a spare. Now we say the magic words… *Opus Taediosum*… and here we have all of the kit revealed in its shiny glory! Looking at the instructions we need to
start with the base panel. One side of the panel is shinier than the other so
that must go on the outside. Grabbing the interface board from the anti-static bag,
we mount it on the base using the nylon nuts and bolts. Let’s take the bits we need out of the
bag. Now, making sure to keep the mat surface
on the inside of the build, we thread each of the four nylon bolts into the
holes. Each one is then secured with two of the nylon nuts in order to give the
correct height for the interface board. Let’s speed the rest of these up… With the four bolts in place we can now
install the interface board. The interface board has internal pins that
need to point inside the unit, and a connection DIN that obviously needs to
be facing the rear of the Mini-Monster. Placing the board on the bolts, it sits
at the perfect height. It’s then secured with the remaining four
nylon nuts. Finger-tight is fine for these. With nylon it’s very easy to strip
the threads, so take care if using grips or a small spanner. Let’s start to
assemble the case by getting the sides into position, again making sure the
shiny side is outwards. This can be a bit fiddly. The case is held together with the steel
nuts and bolts. Once you get the bolt thread it into the
nut, the case stops the nut turning and by screwing it tight you pull the case
together. Once one side’s done
the unit becomes a bit easier to handle. Again, don’t over tighten the nuts. The
case material is very tough but could still potentially crack with too much
force. Let’s go a bit faster now… There! Looking pretty good already and
quite solid! Let’s get to work on the top side of the
unit. Now we have more of these same steel nut-and-bolt combos, but we also
have these Coach Bolts with square cups to match the square holes in the top
panel. Let’s get the joystick on and get the
nut started. These go through and are tightened on to
four locking nuts. Then we’ll need a spanner for these,
because fingers simply won’t work. Keeping the square cup of the bolt in
the top panel, it’s a matter of tightening the bolt up so the joystick
plate is held flush to the top panel. These are quite stiff. Let’s zoom through
the rest. Wow! The action feels pretty good already. To prevent dust, sweat and
other contaminants getting into the gap between the joystick and the panel, we
need to install one of the provided dust covers. This simply slips over the
shaft of the stick. With that in place we can put the threaded knob onto the steel
shaft. To start the process I’m bracing the base of the shaft against my palm to
stop it rotating as I try to screw the knob on. Take note of this slot. To
complete the installation of the knob we need to put a screwdriver into this slot
on the base of the shaft and, tighten as much as possible… Next we install the genuine Sanwa
buttons. These are a simple push fit There are two on the top. …and two on the sides of the case. At last it’s time to start wiring the
unit up. Using the wires with the Spade Terminal connectors, we can connect the
buttons. It doesn’t matter which way around these
go. The joystick mechanism has a locking
connector. It’s keyed so you can’t install it the
wrong way around. With the top panel wired, it’s time to
work on the bottom panel. More Spade connectors, this time for the
Select button. And then the same again for the Run button. The provided instructions give exact
directions of what pin of the joystick needs to be wired to what pin on the
interface board. In this case from left to right, it’s black… Orange… Green… Yellow… and Red. Next we need to connect the
buttons. From left to right it’s the I button… The II button… Select… and Run. With everything connected it’s time to
close the case. Time for some more of our friends, these
tiny M3 nuts. Gently placing the nut into the slot, we screw the bolt into position. You’ll see me backing off here, that is
I’m gently turning the bolt anti-clockwise first. This is so the
thread on the nut and bolt can mate properly and not cross thread. I’ll speed up
the rest of these, that way you can see that I managed to drop the nuts inside
the unit twice, and had to take it apart and start again before deciding that
using my fine tip tweezers worked perfectly… Tighten them all up… then tighten them
all up once again for good luck… and there we have it!
A fine-looking machine and it feels really quite solid. Now we need to connect it to the PC
Engine and we do this with the supplied 8-pin
mini-DIN male-to-male cable. It’s quite long at 1.8 meters. The fitting is really snug and very
secure in the back. Whoops! Almost forgot to put the rubber
feet on! These simply stick on at the four
corners on the bottom of the Mini Monster Now to connect to the pc engine …and now the power… and not forgetting the RGB output from
the back of my SuperSD System 3. Power on! From the start the controls are very
responsive. It actually makes me slightly better at
games! but ultimately it’s Game Over. Big thanks
to Monster Joysticks for the review kit, it’s certainly something I’m going to
use again and again with my PC Engine – their links are below. I hope you enjoyed
this video please some more and hit that subscribe button… Bye!

20 thoughts on “Monster Joysticks ¦ Full Build & Review ¦ ARCADE QUALITY KIT!!!!!”

  1. Mark and his Big Blue Nob are up to no good as he revs his engine to ride into neighborhood. Is he playing Sega, or is it the Nintendo? oh no no PC-Engine power he rides. with his big blue knob and buttons in stride. Keep up the awesome videos Mark! and to monster joysticks you're getting an order in for one these soon.

  2. I think these are great value looking at just the price of the Sanwa parts online – very tempted to get their Raspberry Pi version. Look forward to you doing the video for the artwork for the Monster Joystick

  3. David retro games played badly.

    All this talk of knobs and shafts has left me extremely aroused, I'm off to clean the streets of ladies of ill repute now.

    Looks like a lovely bit of kit 👍

  4. Monster Joysticks, if you're reading this, I check your website every month to see if you have an actual PC kit already. I like the Pi and all, but my gaming is on an actual PC, and I want to give you my money, just let me?

    I really mean it, after going through Guacamelee on the keyboard, I bought Guacamelee 2 and went shopping for an arcade stick, but nothing looked good except Monster Joysticks, but those were only for the Pi… I thought "alright, I'll wait until a USB version shows up, surely in a month or two"… So I'm waiting like 4th year for a way to connect one to my computer 😀

    (Still haven't played a second of that game, I'm that determined :D)

  5. at 1:29 I thought this video to be a crossover with Retromancave channel, same way to decline the "Genuine Sanwa arcade parts" quote, lovely! 😀

  6. Thanks for being a negative influence on my financial well being. Just ordered an orange flavored PCE joystick from Monster Joysticks because of you. It'll work out in the end…I'll just skip lunch this week. and next week. and maybe breakfast as well.

  7. I’ve used one of these at PlayExpo Blackpool. The build quality is nice but the stick needs to be mounted lower than the surface, it’s not meant to be that long. On an arcade cab or console stick (hori HRAP etc..) a Sanwa stick in mounted about about 8mm lower than the surface, not surface mounted like this. It just feels bad.

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